Installing your worktops
Well, the wall units are up, the base units are fitted and you’re probably stood there, tools at the ready and chomping at the bit to fit your new worktops. You can now shout back into the living room, “We’ll see who’s bloody useless”. Then throughout the day, throw in a couple of those old DIY-disaster favourites; “Rome wasn’t built in a day y’know” and “when you’re a perfectionist it takes a bit longer than usual”.
It’s also useful to add a couple of technical terms that no one else will understand but will make you look good – as in “The wall contours are misaligned but I can get around that”. These may have the desired effect and allow you to regain some semblance of respect from your family – either way you have my sympathies and I hope that by reading this next article your troubles will soon be over.
The tools to use
Worktops are available in a variety of materials but for this article I shall be concentrating on the installation of laminate tops as they are the most widely used. For materials such as, granite, corian and stainless steel that are fitted by specialists, this will be a useful reference, as templating is required for them all and many of the rules for the fitting of laminate tops will be appropriate.
Here are the tools you will require for the installation of laminate tops
- jigsaw
- Circular saw
- Plane or Electric planer
- Combination Square
- 2 Saw Horses
- Clamps
- Worktop Template (for Mitres)
- ½ inch Router and straight blade
- Masking Tape 50mm wide
- Silicone Sealant of a best match colour
- 10mm spanner
- Worktop bolts
- File
- Varnish or PVA Adhesive (for cut-outs)
- Tape
- Pencil
- Compass
- Tin of contact adhesive
- Protective wear (goggles, dust mask etc.)
Measure up!
It is important to maintain an even overhang from the front edge of the cabinets and this is the target to aim for in the correct fitting of all worktops. As an example, a 600mm worktop should overhang a 560mm cabinet by 40mm. It may not always be possible to achieve perfection in this respect and + or – 5mm is acceptable. For the purpose of this article I will assume a three-sided application that requires two worktop joints is required.
Decide first which way the joints should run. Remember at this stage to avoid joint proximity to a sink wherever possible. Each worktop should be cut 50mm oversize and, when taking into account the 20mm overhang required at the end of the cabinets, you should add 70mm to overall cabinet length.

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I understand that everybody must ws sign the same thing, but I just think that you put it in a fashion that everyone can recognize.